Ludes is located in the Montagne de Reims, the prime region for Pinot Noir in the Marne champagne region and the concept has always been the production of champagne which reflects this exceptional terroir. Born from the marriage of two passionate and devoted artisans – Léonie a wine grower and Victor a ‘tonnelier’ or barrel maker – the passion has continued for over 150 years, developing a champagne house with an international reputation respected across the globe.
Ravaged by two world wars, only the 6 km of cellars remained intact until rebuilding started in the 1950’s. The next 70 years cemented the reputation of the house of Canard Duchêne and the renaissance continues this year with the appointment of a new cellarmaster – Cynthia Fossier - in January 2025. Continuing the excellent work of Laurent Fédou with whom she worked for 5 years, Cynthia takes on the pivotal role of ‘Cheffe de Caves’ with all the responsibility and challenges that go with it. Accepting the baton from Laurent, Cynthia continues the heritage of excellence honed by her predecessor who forged enduring links with over 200 wine growers.
Another change exemplifying the individuality of the Maison and perhaps typifying the blend of heritage and modernity, is the launch in February this year of the ‘Iconic’ range. A flagship prestige range, the rebranding has taken the bottle shape and presentation of the original Cuvée Charles VII for three out of the four in the Iconic range. With more than a nod to the environmental impact issue, the bottles are lighter than their predecessors.
The oenological savoir-faire of Maison Canard Duchêne, is illustrated in the use of a perpetual reserve for crafting the Iconic Brut Léonie champagne. These reserve wines, viewed as a wealth of savoir-faire, are made up of each blend of this cuvée created since 2012, in which the oldest wines date back to 2009. This unusual method conveys ad infinitum a slight note of each wine selected in the blends, bestowing an unchanging style and wonderful aromatic depth. Brut Léonie represents the very essence of the art of blending, superbly encapsulating the Canard-Duchêne’ style.
This fresh, lusciously indulgent and complex champagne has been crafted with fine dining in mind, so is aimed exclusively at wine merchants and the hospitality sector. Around £34 per bottle from independent specialists.
The other three cuvées in the Iconic range are the Blanc de Blancs (100% chardonnay), Blanc de Noirs (100% Pinot Noir) and the Brut Rosé. Iconic in every sense – admired, representative and ‘worthy of veneration’. These are fabulously enjoyable champagnes which have true identity, whilst retaining innate elegance and freshness, with subtlety throughout. Notes of lightly toasted brioche, stone fruit and orchard fruits, fine persistent mousse and a long flavoursome finish. Around £47- £55 online and look out for them in good restaurants. Sip them on their own or pair with chef's creations!