Richard Esling
28 April, 2025
News

Richard Esling, On the Grapevine: Outstanding Austrian wine producer does it again!

Some wine producers strike gold every once in a while, when everything goes just right with the weather and the winemaking, whilst others win awards for the quality of their wines on a seemingly perpetual basis. One such winery is Weingut Pfaffl based in the Weinviertel region of Austria. Voted European Winery of the year back in 2016, Pfaffl has been voted Best Producer Austria every year since 2020 and has done it again this year in 2025. A fabulous story of success for a pioneering family of ‘new wave’ Austrian wines.

Weingut Pfaffl. A collection of recent Vintages from Best Producer Austria 2025

Starting with a miniscule vineyard plot of just 0.75 ha in 1978, the family vineyards now extend to an impressive 158 ha in 2024. Weingut Pfaffl is a shining example of modernity and innovation, with dual objectives of making outstanding quality wines whilst paying the utmost attention to preservation of the environment. In order to cope with climate change and hot, dry summers, experiments with different vine pruning methods started in 2010. 10 years later, a substantial part of the vineyards were converted to minimal pruning, producing more shade and smaller berries, preserving acidity and freshness with enhanced flavour concentration.

Winemaking is in the capable and experienced hands of Roman Josef Pfaffl who took over from his father in 2004, aged just 20. Gentle pressing of the grapes in state-of-the-art wine presses, ultra-clean winery, air-conditioning, water fountains and meticulous work in the vineyards all contribute to the highest quality wines under the direction of Roman Josef and his sister Heidemarie, who both took over the running of the business in 2011.

The Pfaffl range of wines, which include reds and rosé alongside some of the world’s best Grüner Veltliner whites, are a far cry from other Austrian wines of the 1980’s, hit by a catastrophic wine scandal, whose legacy sadly still lingers on. Austrian wine is now firmly back in the limelight and Pfaffl is one of its great standard bearers.

Austrian Red and Rosé Wines from Pfaffl.
Austrian Red and Rosé Wines from Pfaffl. Credit: Richard Esling WineWyse

The wine range is impressively diverse for a single winery, with 19 white wines, 10 red, 3 rosé and 3 sparkling wines, with a great many gaining gold awards in tastings. With their striking diamond shaped labels, these are wines worth seeking out for their quality, authenticity and different flavours.

Weingut Pfaffl Grüner Veltliner Zeisen is pure benchmark wine for this inveterately Austrian white grape variety. Crisp, fresh and juicy with hints of peach and citrus notes and spicy, black pepper on the finish. £17 - £18 from independent merchants. Pfaffl Golden Grüner Veltliner is a cut above, with great elegance and complexity encapsulated in a full bodied, full flavoured, luscious white wine. From top vineyards and with gentle oak treatment this is a truly exceptional wine from this grape variety.

Weingut Pfaffl La Grande Rosé is a pale delicate pink, with a deep and complex flavour, from a blend of Zweigelt and Saint Laurent red grapes. Wien 2 is one of the Pfaffl red wines from Viennese vineyards and a blend of indigenous Zweigelt with Pinot Noir. Brimming with fruit, there are notes of morello cherry, blackberry and strawberry. Subtle oak ageing adds complexity resulting in a light to medium, fruity, juicy red wine. £16.60 from Field and Fawcett of York.

Pfaffl wines. Best Producer Austria 2025 in Mundus Vini International Wine Competition.
Pfaffl wines. Best Producer Austria 2025 in Mundus Vini International Wine Competition. Credit: Richard Esling WineWyse

These are just some of the wines produced by the Best Producer in Austria of 2025, all of which are worth seeking out in the Independent wine Merchants or find them at source on a trip to Austria!